Day 16 - Back to Phakding - Phakding 2400 metres

If there were Olympoic events for weightlifting with your neck or carrying loads with your nose 6 inches from the ground the Nepalese would clean up big time based on the evidence of what is seen on trail - these guys are just phenomenal !

We had it easy descending from Namche to Phadking taking 4 hours compared to the 7 hours heading up so had the opportunity to observe close up the amazing efforts of these human oxen as they managed their 50-100 kg loads seemingly without even breaking into a sweat. A good Aussie friend of ours (bulky 6 foot 2) attempted to carry a 40-50 kg load by neck strap on our trek in 2009 and not only fell straight over but to this day still suffers a neck niggle !

Our descent gave us a final view of Everest (clouded) and the usual just less than terrifying views from the high suspension bridge (opening to Everest movie) which swings precariously in anything more than a zephyr of a breeze - disarming to say the least !

We even had the luxury of an ice cold sprite courtesy of about the only working fridge in Nepal near Monju before racing into Phakding close to midday

Monika's desire not to stay at our crappy accommodation (we stayed here on the way up) in Phakding even had us momentarily contemplating going all the way to Lujka but an ominous build up of cloud which soon became an afternoon thunderstorm resulting in pretty solid rain put a kibosh on those plans !

It was hard to believe that just a week ago we were at Base Camp congratulating ourselves on our effort while also wondering how Burma's climbers attempt to be their country's first ascent of Everest would go (attempt due in the next week)

For us it was time to recover by doing little other than play cards, listen to the rain and enjoy umpteen cups of hot lemon drink to help repair our dry throats caused by continued exposure to high altitude and in Monika's case her persistent asking of Birbal "are we there yet" !

Roll on Lukla !