Day 13 - Lakeside - Goyko 4700 metres !

With envious images in mind of Monika luxuriating in Namche we started off early from Machermo climbing steeply out of town with the morning mist closely hugging the ground.

Thankfully the early part of our route was relatively flat punctuated by a couple of steep climbs as we followed the Dudh Khosi riiver towards its source near Tibet.

Again the stark landscape and the absence of other trekkers provided for great solitude as we passed only a few inhabited areas.

One the outpost of Fanga was more poignant than  others having been the scene of a snow avalanche that caused the unfortunate demise of a number of trekking Japanese in a 1996 snow storm

Following a glacial morrain climb we finally emerged on top at the first of the 3 Lakes that lead to Goyko each progressively larger than the last with its emerald green waters !

Finally after 4 hours we entered the small township at Goyko with the striking Goyko RI hill beside it ( a bit sad when a 5,350 metre hill doesn't even qualify as a Mtn!) and at the Cross roads of two well known trekking passes  the Renjo La and Cho La - both over 5,300 metres high

After a rest at our pretty upmarket accommodation we took to exploring some nearby ridges which gave great views of the Ngozumpa Glacier and the Towering Cho Oyu (6th highest) in the distance on the Tibetan border - we also took time to venture to the 4th lake before afternoon biting winds and snow forced a hasty Retreat to our warm dining room

All that remains to be seen is if the weather will clear sufficiently to allow us an early morning ascent of Goyko RI for its spectacular Himalayan Mtn views

Day 12 - Two Way Split - Machermo 4200 metres

Repacked and with plan B now in place we descended steeply down from Phortse to the river to split our group - Monika and our Porter climbing back to Namche by way of Mongla for some well earned R&R while Birbal and I set about ascending the Goyko valley to Machermo en route to the Goyko Lakes.

Off the Everest "highway" the Goyko valley provides for a stunning contrast - steep brooding mountains, stark terrain and amazingly very few fellow trekkers !

Unfortunately though it all came at a cost - after 2 days of descent it was back to constant gut crunching climbing ascending nearly 600 metres in altitude over the course of the day to the small outpost of Machermo now being enveloped in an afternoon mist that suggested that more snow was once again on the way !

Like most tea houses the lack of insulation forces you to gather around the dining room where if lucky a dung fuelled fire and the body heat of fellow trekkers is just enough to prevent you from turning into a human ice block !

Roll on Goyko !

Day 11 - Decision Time - Phortse 3,900 metres !

The overnight snow had largely dissipated as we sat down to our usual breakfast fare - Monika nothing and me a few spoonfuls of largely inedible porridge !

It was time to get the body into action although there was strong protest noted from particular body parts at having to put on pretty disgusting clothes and not having showered now for over a week - baby wipes and baby powder being the implements of choice to minimise any strong odours !

Our River valley trek took us to Upper Pangbouche before a healthy climb on narrow paths soon had us into cloud level and cold winds.

We were passed in the opposite direction by more than one group that had members who were seriously struggling to acclimatize - notably those persons from warmer Asian countries.
This path I remember well from 2014 had thankfully been repaired having previous sections of narrow width with sheer drops - not great for anyone suffering from heights.

Finally we reached the paths peak meaning at last some serious descending to the famous village of Phortse where nearly all able bodied males have summited Everest. To celebrate that experience they are currently building a climbing school to encourage foreigners and locals alike to attend.

At our pretty reasonable accommodation we made a joint decision to get Monika to Namche tomorrow (with our porter) to assist a quicker recovery while Birbal and I take on the Goyko valley apparently far quieter than the Everest highway as as trek for 2 days to the fabulous Goyko Lakes region and the amazing views from Goyko RI.

Day 10 - A Quick Retreat - Sumare 4,000 metres !

With our EBC goal realised and Monika still exhibiting AS symptoms it was time to remove ourselves from the 5,000 metre zone ASAP.

The direct route to Goyko via the 5,300 metre Cho La pass near Labouche was out of the question because of Monika's condition causing us to directly descend the way we'd climbed through Labouche to Thukla for lunch hoping to catch Mark and Katrina who on later reports were holed up in Pheriche with AS problems of their own

Leaving Thukla 4650 metres the weather took its of late afternoon turn for the worse with a bitterly cold headwind signalling snow showers not far away.

Finally we made it to Sumare at 4,000 metres - what had taken us 3 & 1/2 days to ascend taking only 1 day on the downward return.

We'd no sooner settled into our ice cold accommodation when the snow started bucketing down making us glad to have found shelter if you call loosely assembled plywood such.

Our evening was shared with with an interesting young couple (one an Aussie) - polar bear guides during the Canadian season and travellers of no fixed abode for the remainder of the year. With snowboards in arm they have skied the slopes of Afghanistan, Iran and the Pamirs while also recently taking a series of local boats along the Amazon - a book awaits me thinks !

For us we have an important decision to make as with Monika's condition still not on the improve it may mean that we have to split our group into two with the valley that enters the Goyko region only a day away !

For the moment it's time to roll up those blankets, shiver in bed and have some of those weird dreams that only sleeping at altitude (or a drug combo) can bring !

Monika's thoughts - Push to Base Camp. 3rd May 2016

Michael certainly got the title right "Make or Break". I was determined it would be "MAKE"

I thought the altitude sickness would have gone by now. The constant nausea  was really starting to piss me off. Every bite of food, every sip of water had me dry retching or throwing up. The good news - No headache.

Leaving Gorakshep for Base Camp without any lunch, legs feeling like lead. I knew I was in for a challenging day.

The so called Nepalese flat soon started taking its toll with me getting slower and slower.

After two and a half hours we finally make it.

Apart from the sense of achievement of finally being able to say "I've been to Everest Base Camp". The pile of rocks (as Michael refers to EBC) surrounded by incredible snow capped mountains, the glacier, the ice formations, the vastness, blue and orange tents, knowing that 200-300 climbers are getting ready to summit the highest mountain in the world was pretty awe inspiring. It's a lot to take in while freezing you bloody butt off but take it in I did.

After hundreds of photos and a small victory dance we say goodbye to EBC and head back to Gorakshep in freezing wind and snow.

YES, I DID IT!!!!!!