Day 2 - Yaks & Dust - Phakding 2652 metres

Wow patent this as an amusement ride for thrill seekers and you're on a winner - riding a bucking bronco (read plane) with 7,000 + metre mtns on one side ridges seemingly within touching distance underneath and a looming runway the size of a postage stamp directly ahead with a mountain behind it acting as a damned effective full stop !

We were up at the crack of dawn to negotiate the chaos that resembles Kathmandu airport before finally boarding our tiny Tarra Air twin ottter comprising 2 young pilots and 12 very nervous passengers flying to one of the most dangerous airports in the world

As it was a we need not of worried during this beautiful 40 min flight - our guide had already said a few prayers on the way to the airport and the 11 pairs of white knuckles seemed to provide that extra lift to get us safely on to the ground !

With a quick lunch and a repack of our backpacks (read loading up our poor Porter) we took to the well trodden dusty trail descending (yes descending!) for 30 minutes directly out of Lukla.

With the descent, the hot weather and already beautiful scenery we were both in a state of near bliss until that is we tackled our first hill of the day a precipitous 5 metre climb that had us remembering just like childbirth (i'm told) all those painful experiences)

Despite tens of thousands doing this trek yearly it is not a picnic in the park with sharp angled Rock's and Yak interbreeds of some sort lready providing adequate trip ending hazards.

As it was we sailed into (well at least Monika did) Phakding (try saying that quickly) for our first overnighter, great scenery, the sun and an ensuite of sorts almost enough to make us forget that one of the hardest days on trek is tomorrow !

Fwd: Kathmandu

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Monika Litchfield <monika17.ml@gmail.com>
Date: Monday, 25 April 2016
Subject: Katmandu
To: Lichy1.hayden1772@blogger.com

Katmandu

Days 1 & 2 - On the Road to Everest again !

What could be better than starting off the day than by inhaling a lungful of dust flavoured with chunks of automotive fumes while attempting to avoid being trampled or crushed by a throng of people and motor vehicles intent on sharing the same 6 inches of square space that you're trying to occupy -welcome back to the Thamel in Kathmandu circa 2016 !

Our long long journey (30 + hours)  had comprised  a midnight Tulla flight, a 13 hour stopover in KL spent in a semi comatose state at a Malaysian Air sponsored day hotel, a 5 hour night flight to Kathmandu and 30 seconds of screaming as our pilot successfully embedded most of our aircraft into rather than on top of the Kathmandu runway !

After recovering we managed our way to our 3 star hotel near the Thamel accompanied by our guide and great friend Birbal who we'd both first met on a World Expeditions trek through the Annapurna's in 2009 !

After a night of " sleep of the dead"  we took to the streets caching up first with our nearby favourite tee shirt man Aktar who gave us a chilling personal account of the Nepal Earthquake (12 months ago almost to the day) - 48 hours of constant aftershocks, many deaths caused by collapsing structures and temples, and a total absence of food and water as people struggled to survive sleeping in parks without shelter often in torrential rain !

In Aktars case his salvation was assistance by the Indian Govt that allowed him and his family to be transported temporarily back to his home town in India

It was a sense of deja vu as we walked the 2 kms to the Thamel surrounded by the same traffic and dust that we've become accustomed to over the years in Kathmandu !

This time though we had some welcome company meeting up with my brother Mark and his good friend Katrina who are also doing an Everest Base Camp trek albeit 2 days after our commencement
Having lunch together and listening to their early trip hassles including a lost bank card (misplaced) and a dropped camera, the 4 of us walked to the historic Durbar square now a ready visual reminder of the 2015 Earthquake with cracked or collapsed structures evident as well as preparation for the commemorative period of rememberrance scheduled to take place tomorrow.

Returning Monika and I " rick shawed"  it back to Thamel central nearly putting our cyclist / driver into permanent retirement as he struggled to keep his 1936 rickshaw moving without collapsing and killing it's  occupants !

Handily tipped though we bade our pale looking driver well and journeyed back to our hotel to prepare for our white knuckle experience of an early morning flight into what is readily recognized as one  we of the most dangerous airports in the world Lukla - nothing like an adrenaline rush to start you're big adventure !

Monika's Thoughts !

I must be nuts ! It's my 3rd time back to Kathmandu and my 2nd trek to Everest Base Camp in the last 18 months despite the powerful memories i have of the treks basic amenities, freezing conditions and the pounding affect that Altitude had on me !

Maybe I'm obstinate but mostly I feel there's a trek not completed despite making it in 2014 to within 2 hours of Everest Base Camp after 14 days walking from Jiri before turning back. I feel I owe it to myself to give it another shot although i'm very aware that you don't muck around with altitude sickness when the nearest Hospital is 4-5 days away !

The return to Nepal has given me the opportunity to goal set once again in terms of effective fitness important for us "middle agers" who often find themselves so tied up at work.  A few kgs' lighter, some better planning for acclimatisation and some good orthotic inserts wont hurt either !

What I am really looking forward to is the spectacular scenery that just keeps getting better and better the more you push through the Khumbu Valley and the closer you get to Everest

It should be a great trek !   

Some 2014 Highlights !

Mike's Thoughts !

For some it's the taste of adventure for others a spiritual journey that builds to a euphoric high while standing in the shadows of some of the mightiest monoliths of the Himalayan range !
Whatever the reason, a trek to Everest Base Camp is without doubt a test of endurance not because of terrain or distance but because of the cumulative effect of sleepless nights, basic amenities and the effort required to do anything more physical than tieing shoelaces at these extreme altitudes !
For Monika the journey is a little more personal having got so close to reaching Base Camp in 2014 before succumbing to Altitude sickness. With some careful planning and care her goal will hopefully be realised on this trip !
Our 18 day trek to Base Camp goes by way of the stunningly beautiful Goyko Lakes and the daunting Cho La pass at a breathtaking altitude of 5,400 metres !
The trip co-incides with the one year anniversary of the devastating 2015 earthquake in Nepal that took over 8,000 lives. In a very small way our trip with our great friend Birbal, helps to continue to support and restore confidence in this beautiful country with its amazingly friendly people !
Let the journey begin !